1931 Chevy 5 Window Coupe

This is a video we took the first time I ever drove the car.  It had a bit of a death wobble in the front end but I ironed that out later.  It was an amazing feeling driving something that I built from a truck that was buried in the dirt for about 50 years.

This is the Coupe right before we started sanding it for paint.  I took it out for a test run and the torque converter went out.  I took these pictures after it died.

I was trying to get this car ready for the Glendive car show and the converter went out about 3 days before the show.  So I pulled the engine and transmission, replaced the converter, installed the red lexan windows, sanded and painted the body and put the floor in in 3 days.  Needless to say I made it to the carshow.

Tara made the seat cover for me.

This is a 30's Pontiac dash

These are a couple of the pictures they used in the Rebel Rodz magazine that I had a 2 page layout in.

1931 Chevrolet 5 Window Coupe Body

I set the body up on the firewall, it is the easiest way to square it up.

Here I started adding steel structure to the inside of the body.  Old Chevy's had wood for the body framing.  They basically made a wood frame then wrapped it in metal.

Here is the body before I chopped the roof about 4 inches.

After the chop.

You can see here the fiberglass trunk lid I bought from Speedway Motors, then I made the panel above and below the lid.

Chevy Coupe Frame Fabrication and Painting, Suspension

Here I added some crossmember bracing, sometimes called x-members because of their shape. 

I then added some Ford Mustang springs and Speedway Motors spring mounts. 

Here the frame is upside down for painting.  You can see the 4 link mounts that I welded up.

Tara bought me the headers for Christmas.

I just like these two black and white photos.

These last four are out of order but, they show the body channeled over the frame 6 inches and what it looked like before the channel job.

Unchanneled

Channeled

You can see why I said earlier I should have taken more out of the frame length, it looks funny.

Sandblasting, Frame Preparation, Shortening the Frame

Here is the 27' Chevy frame back from the sandblaster.  I think it cost me about $200 to get it blasted.

Here I have the sections of the frame marked out to remove.  I later found that I should have taken about 7 more inches out so that the proportions of the car would look correct.  You live and learn.



I used a reciprocating saw and a grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut the sections out of the frame.  I step cut it so that I would have more surface to weld and the lower cut will support the upper cut.

I made sure to weld cross braces from side to side to make sure the width of the frame stayed the same.

Here the frame is welded back together.  What I learned later on is I should have welded gusset plates on the inside of the frame rails over the cut sections.  My thinking at the time was that when I boxed the frame that would give it enough support.  It ended up being fine but now I always gusset stress areas.